“Differences are pervasive, ordinary, and acceptable, inclusion of all students in education is critically important for creating societies that recognize and embrace human variation.” (Baglieri, S. & Knopf; 2004, pg. 526)
My decision to create a resource rather than working on a theoretical intervention was clear from the get-go; I created a London college of fashion (LCF) Technical resource page on fittings and fitting etiquette that could be used by students as a reference tool. I wanted the content to be as inclusive as possible, to guide students on how to prepare for fittings of all performers rather than focusing on performers with differences, using the social model of disability as an inspirational tool to create a page on how to approach fittings for performers with differences in a normalised way.
As the UALs disability service values aim to “Champion the social model of disability. We use it as a tool to identify barriers that could be removed for the benefit of all students…” (2019); through advanced communication and accessibility within the new LCF building, specialist requirements should not be needed, however students need to be aware that these barriers still exist, and how they can contribute to removing them. It is our responsibility to teach students how to treat all their performers equally despite differences.
I am a 38-year-old, cis gender, straight, working class female with a BA (Hons) in costume for performance. I have dyslexia and my husband has physical disabilities with English being his second language, which gives me a further understanding of learning differences, physical differences, language barriers and how important inclusivity can be to people. This has impacted my view on this artefact.
I am the specialist technician for the BA and MA costume for performance courses at LCF. While fashion designers create their garments and find models to suit the outfits, in costume, we create bespoke garments that give information about the character for an already chosen performer. In this industry Costume Creators have no say in who these performers are as they are chosen by casting directors. Historically, able bodied performers portrayed the roles of characters with differences. Thankfully, the performance industry has come a long way in casting performers with disabilities and differences for such characters.
In the film Saving Private Ryan producer Mark Huffam has been quoted for working with amputees and paraplegics to achieve realism in war scenes. Notably actors such as Troy Kotsur, a deaf actor playing a deaf character in the film Coda (2021), who won the Oscar for best supporting actor to an audience applauding in ASL, are achieving higher representation in the industry.
According to RespectAbility (2021) despite there being an increase in characters with disabilities on screen, there is still a long way to go to reflect the percentage of those with disabilities in the population. With many organizations and discussions about increasing the representation of not only those with disabilities, but also performers who identify as trans and non-binary and performers of ethnic minorities, it is important that our students are well informed on etiquette to be as professional as possible when entering an industry emphasising this representation. When Tracy Davenport interviewed director and performer Josh Odsess-Rubin for Backstage magazine, he stated “As a cisgender theatre professional, I see it as my responsibility to educate myself first and foremost. If I don’t understand the nuances of Trans identity and the proper language I should be using [when] working with trans actors, I will undoubtedly do harm even if I’m well-intentioned.” (2023) With UALs Strategy 2022-2032 having a focus on employability, it is our responsibility to give the students the etiquette, skills, and confidence to work in the industry and be an integral part of changing it for the better.
Fittings are an integral part of the costume making process involving the performer to contribute ideas or concerns about the costume. After all, the costume helps the performer become the character they are hired to play. Fittings are intimate, and performers can also have vulnerabilities and insecurities that can surface during this time, regardless of ablism, disabilities, gender, or ethnicity. Currently, students learn how to do fittings one to one with the tutor. There are no professional resources to help remind students on what to do, what to bring and how to act. There is no class or resource embedded within the course that covers performers with differences. As students currently pick their performers, I want the resource to normalise the idea of working with performers that have differences, knowing they will get the support from the staff and university. “A classroom discourse that dialogically and pedagogically explores and embraces differences nurtures relationships within the classroom community and leads students towards a broader appreciation of difference.” (Baglieri, S. & Knopf; 2004 pg. 527)
The use of LCF Technical resource pages was expanded during Covid to enable us to teach inclusively online. Combining connectivism pedagogy with student centred learning; they have become an integral part of the technical workshops. Links to pages are embedded into Moodle for each unit and students are familiar with using them from year one term one in their own time, accessing the information and links to additional resources, if they wish, to further their own learning. The pages are accessible on any smart device.
It was important to me creating a resource that was not only inclusive in content, but accessible for all students regardless of learning differences or English being their second language The page includes an immersive reader function without the need for a specialist program and careful consideration was taken in terms of the language and terminology used to ensure that easily translating the page was an option. With an aim to implement differentiated instructions to “seek to move away from teaching to the whole class in the same manner and addresses the needs of all learners, including those who are at risk and the gifted, through various forms of well planned, well-organized, flexible curriculum and instructional strategies,” (Thakur 2014 pg. 1) within an online environment.
The page also includes information about underwear worn by trans and non-binary performers and terminology of these garments, alongside modesty garments by Intimask – a leading industry provider in modesty garments for performers in inclusive skin tones. These are vital in costume and very personal to the performer’s identity. The page also includes the law regarding fittings for under 16 performers which applies to students if they choose a child performer for one of their projects.
Due to the term ending before completing the LCF fittings and fitting etiquette LCF tech page, I have been unable to get students’ feedback. However, once the page goes live in October, a QR code that links to a feedback form will be provided to all students after their fittings referring to the tech page and its success. Unfortunately, after finishing the page I discovered that this is only accessible by LCF staff and students and not open to the rest of UAL. This is something I am consulting my line manager about to make the future of making pages accessible for all students of UAL.

Through a tutorial and consultations with LCF co-workers, and an ex-co-worker of mine that works at Trinity Laban dance school; a school that is renowned for their inclusive practices in industry; I gained valuable feedback on the page and how to make it more inclusive. I changed questions in the performer questionnaire referring to trans shape wear. Replacing this with “Underwear” refers to garments such as binders as well as cis underwear, which would make the question inclusive, knowing all performers need to wear the same underwear that they would wear for a performance as it can change the fit of the costume. It was also suggested to add preferred pronouns of the performer to the questionnaire, and pronouns of the character if different. During the peer to peer presentations, it was suggested that I directly ask students for feedback as early as possible in order to gain suggestions to make any changes before the page goes live.


It was also recommended to remove the link to the measurement video guide for menswear as we currently have no guide for womenswear. Noticing this, I have planned to collaborate on a video guide without referring to gender. This will be filmed and added in September.


The most valuable suggestion received was to add a section to the page about getting verbal consent before the fitting starts, and talking to the performer about what you are about to do to keep them at ease. This is a part of fitting etiquette I missed adding to the page initially. These are all changes that I plan to do before the start of term, collaborating with colleagues involved.
The success of my artefact will show as soon as students start using it providing formative feedback before and after fittings. This resource will inevitably evolve over time through student suggestions and academic colleagues’ input.
This assignment gave me greater insight on the challenges of making the resource inclusive for all when there is a need for specialist adjustments for specific needs. We aim to live in a world that is inclusive for all, and I hope that the students we are teaching now can make that a reality. “The social model demonstrates that the problems disabled people face, are the result of social oppression and exclusion, not their individual deficits. This places the moral responsibility on society to remove the burdens which have been imposed, and to enable disabled people to participate.” (pg. 198)
Link to the LCF Technical resource page Fittings and Fitting Etiquette
https://artslondon.sharepoint.com/sites/LCFTech/SitePages/Costume-fittings-and-etiquette.aspx
Word count 1587
Bibliography
Baglieri, S., & Knopf, J. H. (2004). Normalizing Difference in Inclusive Teaching. Journal of Learning Disabilities, 37(6), 525–529. https://doi.org/10.1177/00222194040370060701
Lewis, R (2018) Saving Private Ryan’s harrowing 23-minute opening scene cost $12 million to make Available at https://metro.co.uk/2018/07/11/saving-private-ryans-harrowing-20-minute-opening-scene-cost-12-million-make-7701547/ (Accessed 25th May 2023)
Appelbaum. L (2021) Percentage of Characters with Disabilities on TV Reaches 11-Year Record High Available at https://www.respectability.org/2021/01/glaad-report-2020/ (Accessed 2nd of July 2023)
Davenport. T (2023) Trans Actors and the Challenges of the Trade Available at https://www.backstage.com/magazine/article/trans-actors-challenges-8338/ (Accessed 2nd July 2023)
Thakur, K., (2014) Differentiated instruction in the inclusive classroom. Research Journal of Educational SciencesISSN, 2321, p.0508.Available at http://www.isca.me/EDU_SCI/Archive/v2/i7/2.%20ISCA-RJEduS-2014-025.pdf (Accessed 1st July 2023)
UAL (2022) Our Strategy 2022-2032 Available at https://www.arts.ac.uk/about-ual/strategy-and-governance/strategy (Accessed 1st July 2023)
UAL (2019) Disability service: our values Available at https://canvas.arts.ac.uk/documents/sppreview/9b5a3805-479f-4388-99e2-bc8366b49a67 Accessed 1/7/23)
Shakespeare, T., (2006.) The social model of disability. The disability studies reader, 2, pp.197-204. Available at https://books.google.co.uk/books?hl=en&lr=&id=aiQlDwAAQBAJ&oi=fnd&pg=PA195&dq=social+model+of+disability&ots=TBEr70OAp1&sig=1_JZylbo52NP1u0pFOwMzfaU_Pw&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q=social%20model%20of%20disability&f=false (Accessed 2nd July 2023)